Kicheri Kedgeree

Kedgeree is a well known breakfast dish, one that is claimed by many people to be of their own invention. However, kedgeree is a true cross-cultural dish, one that has spanned centuries and the high seas. In the Scottish Kitchen by historian Stephen Trotter he traces the origins of this tasty dish to the Malcolm clan from the Scottish highlands in 1790. There it was a popular Scottish breakfast, cooked with haddock, milk and nutmeg. During Victorian times Scottish soldiers took their kedgeree to India whilst on their tour of duty and here it became linked to a well known Indian dish called Kicheri. An Indian staple, a lightly spiced breakfast dish made from lentils and rice. This mixed up breakfast was soon adopted by the British and appeared on their heavily laiden elaborate Victorian breakfast tables during the days of the Raj. Upon Indian Independence this dish returned to England and here it has remained ever since. It is I think a forgotten breakfast and one that needs be revived. 

My recipe is a mix of kicheri and kedgeree. A modern version of an old classic. It is a dish to be made gently, carefully, each component cooked separately and then combined just before serving, thus preserving each individual flavour. A gentle, warming blend of spices mixed with smoky flaked fish and topped with soft oozing egg yolks, made fresh by the lime and the coriander leaves. Finally a light grate of fresh nutmeg, in honour of the Malcolm clan. A delicious breakfast when served with a large cup of strong, bright, copper Assam tea and one you will surely marvel at, international comfort food at its finest.

Kicheri Kedgeree

Serves 2 very well


500 gms undyed organic smoked Haddock

2 fresh free range eggs

150 gms basmati rice

375 ml water

50 gms urad dhal

large pinch saffron

2 tblsp ghee

1 bay leaf

1 tsp yellow mustard seeds

1 tspn cumin

1 tspn coriander

fresh coriander leaves

grate of fresh nutmeg

1 fat garlic clove

3 spring onions

4 tblspns double cream

sea salt

cinnamon stick

2 cardamon pods

1 lime

Place your fish and bay leaf into a shallow pan of water and simmer for five minutes until lightly poached. Remove from the water and leave to cool. Once cool enough to handle, remove the skin and flake into chunks and keep covered until ready to combine with all of the other ingredients. Next put a small pan on to boil for your eggs, the smaller the better, less chance of them dancing around in the hot water and cracking. Bring this water to the boil and time for one minute. Remove the eggs from the heat cover and leave to sit in the water for 12 minutes. This should produce a firm white and a centre fairly thick like double cream. Next prepare your rice. Always use basmati rice for this recipe it has just the right amount of bite and a fragrance that no other rice really compares to. Add the rice and urad dhal to a large saucepan and wash thoroughly until the water runs clear. Add to the pan the water, saffron, cinnamon, pinch of salt and the cardamon pods. Put on the heat and bring to the boil. Let it boil for 4 minutes, lower the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Turn the heat off, place a tea towel to absorb any remaining liquid and a tight fitting lid and leave for ten minutes or so. Whilst the rice is steaming heat a large skillet. In this add the ghee and let it melt, add the mustard seeds and wait for them to gently pop. Chop your spring onions and garlic and add them to the skillet. Let them soften gently in the ghee. Add the cumin, coriander and a pinch of salt. Take care with the salt as if your fish is fairly salty from the smoking process you will not need to add very much, ask your fishmonger. When the onion and spice mix is cooked through, add the rice and fold very gently together, taking care not to break the grains too much. Add the cream and flaked fish and combine, gently again. Grate some nutmeg over the top, sprinkle with some fresh coriander leaves and serve with slices of fresh lime.